“Retro” and “low-budget,” this chain of 1500’s-style Protestant churches provides a “classic” worship environment, along with “plain, hearty” eats for morning communion. The Bolla Valpolicella wine screams “chic,” while the broken pieces of Wonder Bread announce “ghetto.” Despite its wide popularity, many foes slam it as “cliché” and as a “tired” imitation that merely “makes you wish for the real thing.”